Melbourne - Apollo Bay
The great ocean road has been on my to do list ever since I started planning the riding on this continent. The starting point is Torquay, just south of Melbourne and a short train ride from the city. It cost $8 for a ticket to South Geelong and I rode the 30km along a nice bike path and a very direct back road. My hosts for the night were a family who lived just off the main spine road through Torquay. Craig, Kara and two year old Lolita. Lolita is a very funny young girl who talks about herself in the third person. She says things like "mommy, Lolita needs to have a bath" rather than I need to have a bath. They are currently moving house so to take a stranger in for the night was that extra bit of kindness I keep seeing while bike touring. My room for the night was formally Lolita's but she is in with her parents while they move. I shared the room space with Bert and Ernie, Big Bird and Oscar the Grouch wall decorations and completed with Dora the Explorer bed linen. Craig was kind enough to help me with some issues I was having on my bike and Kara made a beautiful steamed vegetable dinner.
There has been a lot of bush fires along the great ocean road in the last couple of weeks. Part of the road has been closed for the emergency services to only have access.
Over 80 houses have been completely destroyed as the fires reached the actual beach front. Luckily for me on the morning I set off, with the possibility of a 50 mile detour around the best part of the whole road the affected part was clear and reopened. The road is fantastic to ride. So many times it reminded me of the Pacific Highway in the US. The wind has been helping for most of the day which can sometimes make or break a journey. I stopped for brunch at the 20 mile mark at the lighthouse featured in the children's TV programme Round the Twist the pushed on to reach Lorne then Wye River. The Lorne to Wye section is the part that had been closed. The fire damage is bad. Houses just along the cliff are completely gutted. You can see belongings still amongst the ruins. There is a Koala population in the area but I'm not sure how or if they were affected but there were some around in the trees just past Wye River. I spent the night at Surf Backpacker Hostel. It cost $20 to camp and use the facilities. Nice shower, kitchen, Wifi and lawn space with a gorgeous view. Next stop should be the 13 Apostles around 40 miles along the coast.
